Gondar
of the fairy-tale castles
A few
miles from the towering splendour of the Simien Mountains lies the township of
Gondar, formerly a capital of Ethiopia, and site of a group of castles which
represent one of the world's mysteries. Nobody has yet been able to ascertain
why King Fasilidas chose this site, in the 17th century even more remotethan
today. Nor has anyone traced the true source of the inspiration of their
architecture, though some of the old palaces of Southern Arabia are modelled on
the same plan: rectangular blocks of three storeys with an upper tower, and
four round turrets at the corners. The castles stand in a rolling park, within
battlemented walls and, as you walk through its empty audience chambers, pace
its battlements, the soft purring roar of the lions in the park echoes and
mingles with the plaintive strains of a masenko, the Ethiopian one-string
fiddle.With a visit to the village of the Falashas, near Gondar, you enter yet another of the many worlds of Ethiopia. The "Black Jews", believed by many to be descendants of the Lost Tribe, still pursue their ancient form of JuLsfn, untainted by change or outer influence. Central point of their village is the Synagogue with its Star of David. Here, you can choose samples of the black pottery made by the Falashas: in shapes, sometimes exceptionally graceful, sometimes almost grotesque, of birds, animals and humans.
And, from the world of ancient Judaism, back to the world of Christianity with a visit to one of Gondar's 44 churches: Debre Berhan Selassie ("Trinity Church of the Mountain of Light"), poised as so many of Ethiopia's churches on a hilltop, and lavishlydecorated with well-preserved 17th century paintings of scenes from the Bible and Ethiopian hagiology.
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