By 1970,
Kagnew Station had come of age as one of the most unique military organizations
in the world. It's rarefied qualities have surfaced in the prolix ARCOM
narratives generously meted out over the years, in justifications for special
funding, and at the annual Asmara Reunion where devotees set apart one night
for collective reflection on their common bone -- Kagnew Station. perhaps it is
this very uniqueness that has contributed to a complete absence of mugwumpery
in the Kagnew Station rank and file. One either like it profusely or hated
it.
On the
positive side, a tour at Kagnew Station offered houseboys and housegirls, a
chance to save a few dollars in the low cost of living, and the opportunity to
capitalize on the Command's endorsement of higher education and take some
University of Maryland or University of Oklahoma courses. For some, the
cultural setting was a matchless experience in itself. For others, it may have
been Red Sea lunkers, the challenge of the Prince Makonnen Golf Course, Italian
food or Ethiopian gold jewelry that kept the personnel office flooded with
extension requests. Or perhaps it was the «l3 months of sunshine»,
that made an assignment to Ethiopia a memorable one. But probably above all,
and especially for the first-termer anxiously awaiting ETS, Kagnew's relaxed
military routine made it an optimum assignment.
The
slackening of military decorum is especially curious in light of Kagnew's
inception in the aftermath of World War II, Add to those militaristic
beginnings the effects of the Korean Conflict, the Cold War, the difficulties
in Southeast Asia and the fact that Kagnew has been ringed by an insurgency for
nearly ten years. To be
sure, the forties, fifties and early sixties witnessed abundant
military activity. For a time, four armored cars and an infantry company
guarded Kagnew Station. There wore orchestrated monthly parades and ceremonies
replete with a polished honor guard and a Combined Services Band. In addition
to basic training for the Special Guards, S-3 begat regular training classes,
weapons qualifications, P.T., and night training maneuvers. There was even
survival training conducted near Axum. But by 1970, almost all of it had
disappeared. When the innovations of the MVA swept through the Army, there was
little effect, for Kagnew authorities had unknowingly anticipated virtually
every change. Apart from the construction of two-man rooms in the barracks, the
availability of beer in Mom's Place (the Consolidated Mess) was the only
noticeable modification. In all probability, the influx of older and more well
educated ASA enlistees contributed to the obviation of such things as work
formations and inspections. Another factor may have been the isolation or the
small-town atmosphere which fostered a sense of collective camaraderie. At any
rate, a significant percentage of Kagnew citizens relished the relaxed routine
Kagnew Station offered.
While
visiting Kagnew Station in 1971, General William Westmoreland observed «I
do not believe we have a more remote station of our Armed Forces than Kagnew
Station.» Kagnew-haters found commiseration implicit in that assessment
for the inconveniences which attended Kagnew's extreme physical and cultural
isolation were the crux of their dissatisfaction. Kagnew-haters groused about
mail backlogs, trave! restrictions and the troublesome supply line which denied
them a good many amenities. Kagnew-haters were habitually afflicted with
Asmaritis, galled by street-boys and frustrated by the promises of R&R
flights which never materialized. In a word, their complaint was boredom, for
there was nothing for them to do. One particular faction lamented the loss of
the regimen of «the good old brown shoe Army.» And so it went at
Kagnew.
A product
of the seventies, which surfaced at Kagnew Station, was the disaffection for
things military which characterized the host of «volunteers»
precipitated by the Vietnamese War. Kagnew Station got radical chic which was
manifest in underground newspapers, rock concerts, coffee houses, Firesign
Theater and of course, utter disdain for crew cuts. Of all the symbols of the
celebrated Haight-Ashbury/Woodstock generation, hair was the salient one. Long
hair became the badge of he initiate. Hair inspired a rock musical and peeked
from under Namath's helmet. Kagnew's hair was cultivated discretely and was
often disguised under viscous pomades and extra-large caps. But Kagnew
initiates faced a day of reckoning in the monthly pay lines where sharp-eyed
first sergeants brooked no deviation from any regulation. Kagnew's barbers
looked forward to pay day.
In
keeping with the spirit which prevailed during the long water shortage, the
Kagnew command worked assiduously to make life pleasurable. There were new
tennis courts, an indoor handball court, a new bookstore and single E-5's moved
off post. A number of other blandishments included improved hotdog buns, an
upgrade and expansion of the PX and the availability of peanut butter in the
commissary.
The Great
Peanut Butter Famine of 1971 was the upshot of low-level bungling, and
Epicurean Kagnewites were confronted by a good many empty commissary shelves
until the Command intervened. When the peanut butter, dish soap and dog food
finally arrived, the commissary did a land office business as Kagnewites
resorted to elaborate ploys to circumvent customer quotas. Ever since that
time, scare-buying tactics have been an integral part of retail life at Kagnew
Station. The quota system was subsequently employed to good advantage
hoodwinking greedy customers into buying large quantities of white
elephant.
The
seventies also enjoyed both/and, a quarterly literary magazine, FM stereo, two
UH-lH helicopters, and the first ladies of the Women's Army Corps to serve in
Africa. There were some records set too. Kagnew's 1972 «Month of
Madness» netted $12,000 for the Army Security Agency Benefit Association
and True Grit set a box office record of $1035.75 at the Roosevelt Theater.
The
Eritrean Liberation Front and their avowed goal of restoring Eritrea's
sovereignty had a significant influence on Kagnew Station in the seventies.
Although incidents increased in the lowlands, Asmara remained a relatively
untroubled oasis. With the possibility of large-scale confrontations in the
offing, however, the Keren Rest Center was boarded up in January, 1971. Kagnew
prepared for the worst which came in mid-1972 when Gazelle reporters filed this
report:
The Ethiopian who approached the gate of the
communications site wanted something, exactly what no one knew for sure (for
sure, no one seemed to know much that day). He had either walked a hundred
kilometers or he wanted a hundred dollars or maybe he was a hundred years old.
At any rate, to someone it sounded like a hundred shifta and out went the
clarion call to the Ethiopian commandos, who presently manifested themselves in
profusion in the vicinity of Tract D. Meanwhile, back at the main
ranch, lines of communication crackled with accurate assessments of the
situation: They blew up the big dam out by Tract D!
The Ethiopian commandos guarding the dam have retreated to Tract D!
Those commandos are tough. It must have taken a couple hundred
heavily armed shifta to make them do that! Yeah, or maybe a
couple thousand lightly armed ones! AFRTS? Would you put an ad
on the radio Tract D is under attack! Geez, I wonder if
we'll have an alert? «Cooler and higher heads stuck to the saner
of the wild rumors. One hundred rebels, while no biggie, were still to be
reckoned with. Clearly it was a job for...The First Attack Squad! The stalwarts
of the fighting first, irreverently dubbed 'Cummings' Commandos,
assembled in a trice at the sound of the tirst call to action: Drag the
first 35 men you see off the street and get em out there! Fearlessly they
donned bandolier and field gear. Gloriously they sprang into the enemy
force. «There were heroes everywhere that day. As the backup,
Second Attack Squad, Rasmuson's Ragtags, readied for the fray. One tight-lipped
youngster put through a terse phone call back to his duty station My God,
they re giving us real bullets. Tell my wife I'm going out there. It must be
the real thing! «And none was mute icily determined than the
leader of the pack, CPT John R. hisself. «Calmly he awaited news
of the Armageddon's progress. Knowing it might he their last cup ever, he
dispassionately gave his fighting men the order to deploy to the Consolidated
Mess and to drink coffee therein. «In the air too, Kagnew
carried the day. The command crackled inside the earphones of a nearby pilot:
Small FF out at Tract D. Disembark your present passengers and provide
air surveillance. OK. Uh, what's an FF? ' It's a
firefight. Disembark us,' cried the present passengers. «With
the advent of aerial reportage the extent of the situation became evident:
A hoax?' A &$%**+&$ hoax!
Geez, I guess we won't have an alert.' «There is one
consolation. If the shifta every try a real attack, they will quite likely die
of laughter before they can fire a shot.»
The
shooting death of a military police courier on the Massawa road in January,
1971 prompted Kagnew authorities to close the road to American travellers.
Although details of the shooting were never learned, the closure remained in
effect until travel restrictions were modified to allow POX convoy travel nine
months later, The Keren Rest Center was never re-opened and the road remained
off-limits until October, 1972, In the wake of the newly-imposed travel
restrictions, Kagnew's morale took a downward spiral
«Personnel turbulence, the Volunteer Army euphemism that
covered the uncertainties, of whether or not one was in the Army, or out,
descended on Kagnew Station in December, 1971 and if nothing else, set the
stage for a scenario of frustration and uncertainty which prevailed during the
early months of 1972.
On March
9, 1972 Post Commander LTC Clarence 0. Light, Jr., made the official
announcement. Owing to Department of Defense fiscal and budgetary
considerations, the Army Security Agency was leaving Kagnew Station. The
announcement caught no one unawares. In fact, after the countless rumors
spawned by a moratorium on incoming replacements and spending, it was bland
indeed. Quite naturally, the immediate concerns were personal in nature and
eclipsed whatever sentiment there may have been for the fate of Kagnew
Station.
Tract C
operations ceased on March 24 and the long-suffering cadre of 05H's moved
fixtures and furnishings with a vengeance. The 05H's had been vociferous
Kagnew-haters, or perhaps more specifically, Tract C
haters. Their detestation centered on their plight of frozen
tricks (non. rotating shifts) and infrequent breaks.
The
varied personnel problems that attended the phaseout became the focus of
command attention. Mandatory early releases, pregnant wives, financial
hardships and cumbersome pets complicated the already harried procedure of
relocating personnel en masse. Space available MAC travel for non-command
sponsored dependents and the Post Commander's mandate to «bring the
hassles to me» solved most of the problems. In short order, ASA was on
the way out of East Africa.
Once
personal concerns had been satisfied, there was considerable speculation on the
plans for Stonehouse and the future of Kagnew Station. As early as February,
1972, unreliable sources in Kagnew's indefatigable rumor mill had prophesied
the closure of the entire station, but after a good deal of inter-agency
juggling in Washington, it seemed that Kagnew would remain intact, sans the
Army Security Agency. This final question became more pressing as ASA ranks
diminished.
By the
end of April, almost all of the equipment from Tract C was crated and shipped.
The building became a furniture warehouse and the «Pit» (the Tract
C Snack Bar) became the square dancing mecca of Ethiopia. For a short time,
displaced ASA personnel were farmed out to other sections whose manpower had
been decimated by the spate of mandatory early release programs, but by June,
Kagnew's population had been reduced by one-third. Sparse attendance at the
Oasis Club and the Roosevelt Theater's «Bird» movies, and the end
of the record rush at the PX provided the most tangible evidence of the
dwindling population. So, as Tract C filled up with furniture and civilian
contractors infiltrated Stonehouse, a torpor began to manifest itself. But
still no word on a new host unit for Kagnew Station.
Finally,
in late May, it was learned that STRATCOM, the obvious choice for the honors,
had declined, and the U.S. Navy had inherited Kagnew Station willy-nilly. The
takeover date was slipped to the beginning of FY 1974 and the Army was directed
to continue housekeeping until that time.
At the
Chief of Naval Operations behest, a site survey team arrived in Asmara in June
to prepare a complete takeover plan. In addition to Navy communicators from
Washington, the team was comprised of individuals representing world-wide
interests in Kagnew operations. After a busy fortnight, they hammered out a
tentative plan which was, in turn, hammered on by a succession of bureaucrats
in Washngton. The plan called for Navy replacements to begin arriving in April,
1973 and for the assumption of every responsibility at Kagnew Station except
Air Force junctions, the Army Transportation Terminal Unit in Massawa and the
operation of Stonehouse.
On
October 1, the final vestige of the Army Security Agency was relegated to the
archives as the United States Army Security Agency Field Station was
unceremoniusly re-designated the U.S. Army Garrison, Kag-Station was
unceremoniously re-designated the U.S. Army Garrison, Kag-ever, and ASA
remained in the wings as the benefactor of Kagnew s tenant units. (original
typos in this paragraph)
For the
Army Garrison, FY 1973 promised to be a year of lethargy in which funds would
be husbanded and turnover preparations would be executed. The Navy's plan
called for the first replacements to arrive in April, 1973, and it was the
Army's goal to lay the groundwork early for an orderly turnover. The
preparations got promptly underway in anticipation of a follow-up team which
was to identify items of Army property the Navy intended to keep. When the team
failed to arrive, curiosity prevailed and there was a good deal of speculation
in Asmara as to the Navy's actual intentions.
Although
the extent of the vacillation is probably obscured in sheaves of Washington
memos, Navy lassitude was diametrically different from the careful planning of
the Army Garrison in Asmara. The Department of the Navy, it seemed, was having
a number of second thoughts about the role it was to assume at Kagnew Station,
and as FY 1974 loomed larger and larger, it became increasingly apparent that
the terms of the original takeover plan were not going to take effect. The
subject of contracts and other equally weighty problems of immediate concern to
the Army seemed to be of secondary importance to Washington planners. Like
General Halftrack, Kagnew authorities began searching the mail for some
assurance that Kagnew Station had not been lost in a beauracratic shuffle.
By March,
however, the Navy began to react. Using empty coffers for leverage, the Navy
engineered an adjustment of the original takeover date so fiscal and command
responsibility would begin July 1, 1973, but a U.S. Army element would remain
to assist with the transfer. It may well be that the Army will leave Kagnew
Station with the same strength with which it arriveda seven man
detachment.
There is
a certain touch of irony as the Army takes its leave. Not long after Lend-Lease
provided the Army with a foothold in Eritrea, Massawa, «bloody
hell-hole» that it was, was relegated to the Navy. In July, some 31 years
later, a landlocked Navy base will rely on the U.S. Army to preside over port
operations on the Red Sea.
For the
departing members of the Army Garrison, the summer of 1973 will be a busy one
with the time divided between assisting Navy counterparts and attending to the
many last-minute details which Kagnewites have faced for a good many years.
There has always been one last print to be framed, the final spree at the olive
wood factory and the weekend trip to Massawa for some instant African
swarthiness. Along with the departures, there will be an assortment of
emotional reactions and probably even an occasional tinge of nostalgia. But in
the final accounting, the residency of the United States Army in Ethiopia's
northerd highlands will become merely another waymark in a 5,000 year history.
Its only lasting significance will be to those who will reflect on the good
times and the bad times Kagnew Station has generously provided.
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