Gondar
of the fairy-tale castles

   A few miles from the towering splendour of the Simien Mountains lies the township of Gondar, formerly a capital of Ethiopia, and site of a group of castles which represent one of the world's mysteries. Nobody has yet been able to ascertain why King Fasilidas chose this site, in the 17th century even more remotethan today. Nor has anyone traced the true source of the inspiration of their architecture, though some of the old palaces of Southern Arabia are modelled on the same plan: rectangular blocks of three storeys with an upper tower, and four round turrets at the corners. The castles stand in a rolling park, within battlemented walls and, as you walk through its empty audience chambers, pace its battlements, the soft purring roar of the lions in the park echoes and mingles with the plaintive strains of a masenko, the Ethiopian one-string fiddle.
   With a visit to the village of the Falashas, near Gondar, you enter yet another of the many worlds of Ethiopia. The "Black Jews", believed by many to be descendants of the Lost Tribe, still pursue their ancient form of JuLsfn, untainted by change or outer influence. Central point of their village is the Synagogue with its Star of David. Here, you can choose samples of the black pottery made by the Falashas: in shapes, sometimes exceptionally graceful, sometimes almost grotesque, of birds, animals and humans.
   And, from the world of ancient Judaism, back to the world of Christianity with a visit to one of Gondar's 44 churches: Debre Berhan Selassie ("Trinity Church of the Mountain of Light"), poised as so many of Ethiopia's churches on a hilltop, and lavishlydecorated with well-preserved 17th century paintings of scenes from the Bible and Ethiopian hagiology.
Gondar Castles
33 King Fasilidas castles of Gondar. 34 Synagogue topped with Star of David in a Falasha village near Gondar. 35 Part of a wall painting depicting equestrian Saints (Debra Berhan Selassie Church, Gondar) 36 The winged seraphims from the painted wooden ceiling in the 17th century church of Debre Berhan Selassie, Gondar. 37 The "Megallah" or market place inside the walls of old Harrar. 38 House of the French 19th century poet Arthur Rimbaud, Herrar. 39 Dire Dawa market. 40 Hyenas being fed by the "Hyena Man" outside Harrar city walls at night.